Machine



(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 1.

O. G. HILL.

RUGHING MACHINE.

No. 464,648. Patented Dec. 8, 1891.

(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet 2.

I O. G. HILL. RUGHING MACHINE.

No. 464,648. Patented Dec. 8, 18 91.

' (no Model.) s Sheets-Sheet 3.

U. G. HILL. RUGHING MACHINE.

No. 464,648. Patented Dec. 8, 189-1 WITNESSES INVENTOR 0mm a zzzzz.

(No Model.) 6 Sheets-Sheet. 4.

I G. G.- HILL.

BUSHING MACHINE.

4 No. 464,648. Patent'ed Dec. 8,1891.

WITNESSES 'INVENTOR A Z 6 E gqm By kisflttorneys 0 W es k I 6 Sheets-Sheet 5.

(No Model.)

C. G. HILL; RUGHING MACHINE.

No. 464,648. Patented Dec. 8, 1891.

TON, n. c

(No Model.) 6 SheetsSheet 6;

O. G. HILL; RUGHING MACHINE.

No. 464,648. Patentd Deo. 8, .1891;

llllllllllllllllllll means of pressure.

' NITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES GREY I-IILL, OF ARNOT HILL, ENGLAND.

RUCHING-MACHI NE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 464,648, dated December 8, 1891.

Application filed September 20, 1886. Serial No. 214,042. (lilo model.) Patented in England December 1, 1885, No. 14,776. and in France April 7, 1886,1lo. 175,826.

No. 175,326, dated April 7,1886,) of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to machines of the class in which frilling or ruchingfed therethrough is wrapped with thread, cord, or like materiahwhile longitudinal threads are sim ultaneously caused to adhere to its surface by Its object is to produce an approved form of ruching by means of simple and effective mechanism, which end I attain by certain novel constructions, combinations, and organizations of instrumentalities hereinafter specified. I

- The accompanying drawings show so much of my improved machine as is necessary to illustrate the subject-1n atter claimed. Unless otherwise indicated, the parts are of usual approved construction. The entrance or feed end of the machine 1 term the back, the onnosite or delivery end the front. That side on the right of a person facing the front of the machine I term the right, the opposite the left. Darts indicate the direction of movement of some of the parts.

Figure 1 is a plan; Fig. 1", a perspective view from the right-hand front corner of the machine, looking from the delivery toward the feed end. Fig. 1 is a corresponding view taken from the opposite corner, looking from the entrance to the delivery end, some of the parts at the latter end being omitted in this figure; Fig. 1, Sheet 6, a transverse section of the steam-moistener; Fig. l", a correspond ing section through the gas-heater plate; Fig. 2, an elevation of the right side of the" machine, partly in section; and Fig. 3, a vertical cross-section on the line 3 3, looking forward or toward the delivery end of the machine. Fig. 4, Sheet 6, shows the form of the frilling or ruching as it passes into the machine. Figs. 5 show, respectively, front and back views of r the completed frilling.

The mechanism is shown as mounted in a main frame a. A short tube 1) of comparatively large diameter turns in bearings 19 in the frame and carries a toothed wheel 17, gearing with another wheel 0 on an axis 0', in turn gearing with a wheel cl, receiving movement in any convenient manner and driving all parts of the machine. A bevel-pinion on the front end of t-helongitudinal axis 0' drives a corresponding pinion on a cross-shaft e on the front or feed end of the machine, which in turn,by corresponding pinions, drives two parallel longitudinal axesfg, passing through the tube 1) to the front or delivery end of the machine. These axes carry, respectively, corkscrew-like spirals f g, the former a comparatively closely-coiled single spiral, the latter a double spiral of twice the length of pitch of the former one; but the speed of rotation of the double spiral g is only half that of the single spiral f. The organization is such that both these spirals revolve in opposite directions or toward each other on their upper surfaces, as shown by the arrows in Fig. 1. A support g enters the interior of the front portion of the double spiral g The spirals, their axes, and driving-gearare made adjustable relatively to each other and to the pressure-roll by well-known means shown in the drawings and which require no particular description.

The gear-wheel b drives a corresponding one it on a stud-axis h. This wheel h gears with a corresponding pinion t immediately below it on a longitudinal axis "5, a bevel-gear 1' on the front end of which drives a corresponding gear k on a cross-shaft 7.2. Aspurwheel k on this shaft drivesa corresponding wheel Z, which in turn drives a wheel m on a cross-shaft m above it, on which the lower pressing-roll m is mounted. The upper pressing-roll n is mounted on a parallel axis a, carrying a pinion n, gearing with a correspondin g pinion m on the axis m. Both these pressing-rolls lie in the same vertical plane between the spirals and close together.

A vessel 0 provided with a roof -shaped longitudinally-slitted top (see Fig. 1) is ar ranged in front of but slightly below the pressing-rolls. Steam issuing through this slit acts on the fabric as it passes from the rolls, after which it passes over a guide-plate p, heated by means of gas. Guide-wires r, resting on adjustable supports 7'', overlie the vessel and plate 19.

A guide q (shown in the form of a flattened tube, Figs. 1 and 3) extends through the tube Z) to a point near the pressing-rolls. As shown in Fig. 3, this guide lies in the horizontal plane of the junction of the pressing-rolls with one edge in line therewith. The single spiral f,'it will be observed, lies above this tube,

while the double one g lies at about the same level and on the opposite side of this guide. A transverse arm or frame 5, fixed upon and revolving with the tube 22, carries a counterbalance .9 at one end and a bobbin 8 at the other. The cotton or thread from this bobbin passes to the work through a guide-eye 8 carried by an arm 011 the frame 3. Spools mounted on the frame supply threadst to be laid longitudinally on the frilling, as hereinafter explained.

Frillings and ruchings arelargely made by setting a plaited or goifered fabric into a straight band. Fig. 4 shows such a fabric as it is passed into the machine. It consists of two strips of gauze, muslin, or other suitable fabric, separately platted and set into a hand, one of these stripsin this instance the under one-bein g shown as somewhat narrower than the other. Figs. 5 show front and back views of the ruching as itleaves the machine, with the frill displaced or drawn'in at regular intervals by a cotton or thread wound around it. The cotton, it will be seen, has drawn the top or loose edge of the frill downward or inward toward the band,at the same time carrying the frill forward and opening out the plaits. The lower part of Figs. 5 shows the upper or longer side of the frill, while the upper part shows the opposite or under side, representing both the wider and the narrower plaiting.

The work, then, which this machine has to do is to convert the frilling shown in Fig. 4 into the form shown in Figs. 5, which is done in the following manner: The straight frill, Fig. 4, is passed through the guide-tube q, with its face or narrower plait downward, and is inserted between the pressing-rolls m 71 which nip the flat band, and thusdraw the frilling continuously through the tube g, which terminates just in front of the rollers and between the spirals f g, as above described. As the frillingpasses from the tube to the pressing-rollers the cotton or thread from thespool. s, passing through the guide-eye s is wound around both the frilling and the spirals f g by the rotation of the tube Z). The thread is thus distended by the spirals, and, as it is laid around the frilling, encroaches upon its edge and causes it to assume the form shown in Figs. 5. The direction of rotation of the spiralf', it will be seen,is such as to cause the cotton gradually to {feed forward overits point toward the pressing-rolls. The double spiral g, although twice the length of pitch, revolves at only half the speed of the single spiral f, and consequently retards the forward movement of the winding cotton on the band-edge of the fabric,the consequence of which organization and operation is that the winding cottons or threads cross the ruching directly from side to side, instead of diagonally, each turn or revolution of the double spiral carrying forward upon it a complete convolution of the winding cotton or thread. In order to fix this winding thread to the band of the frilling, the pressing-rollers m n are heated bysuitable well-known means, such as a gas-flame playing on their axes. The winding cotton, being slightly moist, sticks firmly to the starchedor dressed band of theft-illin g when pressed upon it by the hot rollers. The attachment of this winding thread to the band is rendered more secure by means of a series of longitudinal threads or cottons it, passing around. the pressing-rollers on both sides of the band and fixedv thereon in the way described. These threads cross the winding thread, as shown in Figs. 5. After passing between the pressing-rolls the band=ofi the frilling is drawn by hand' between thetwo parallel guide-wires? r, standing-one over the other, and carried by spring-arms T, which.

tend to press them lightly. together, so that the band of the fabric is gently held and guided. During its. passage betweenthese guides the band is moistened by steanrissu' ing from the longitudinal slit in the top of the vessel b, which steam or vapor is admitted thereto insmall quantities fromany suitable generator, thus veryslightly moist-ening the fabric. The moistened fabric is then drawn over the heater-plate p,.whichdriesit, and the work is then set in well-known ways, so that the frill will retainits form, even without the aid of the threads, any or all of which may be removed from the finished fabric, if desired, Without detriment- The above-described organization is such, it will be observed, that the frilling passes through. the revolving tube bonwhich the winding-thread carrier is mounted from apoint near the eutranee to. a point near the delivery end of the machine. The guide-tube through which the frilling passes terminates a short distance in front of the pressure-rolls. The single spiral f overlies the frilling side of the guide, extending across the space above mentioned beyond the axis of the narrowcrimping or pressing rollers,which act on the band close to the frilling, or, in other words,.in line with the opposite edge of the guide. The double spiral g, it will be seen, extends across the same space,- somewhat below and on one side of this latter. side of the guide. It also extends beyond the axis of the pressing-rollers, itsdelivery end being supported by a stationary stud 9 over the point of which the winding thread is drawn by the-action of thespirals and pressing-rollers. will also be observed, is wound around the The winding thread; it

spirals and filling just in advance of the delivery end of the tubular guide during the passage of the frilling across the space between the end of the guide and the pressingrollers, so as to act directly upon the edge of the frilling to crimp or indent it. As the double spiral g lies outside of a vertical plane passing through the adjacent edge of the guide-tube, the band-edge is prevented from being indented, while the single spiral, lying inside of the corresponding plane of the opposite side of the guide-tube, causes the loose edge of the frilling to be indented or crimped, as above explained.

Having thus fully described the construction, organization, and operation of my improved frilling and ruching machine, what I claim therein as new, and as of my own invention, is-

- spirals rotating at different speeds on opposite sides of the guide, and a winding-thread carrier or guide rotating around the spirals to wind a thread around them and the frilling between the guide and rollers, as described.

3. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore set forth, of a frilling-guide, pressing-rollers which draw the frilling't-herefrom, spirals of different pitches rotating at different speeds on opposite sides of the guide, and a winding thread carrier or guide rotating around the spirals to wind the thread around the frilling, as described.

4. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore set forth, of a frilling-guide, pressing-rollers which draw the frilling therefrom, a single spiral on one side of the guide, a double spiral of greater pitch but revolving at less speed than the single spiral on the 0pposite side of the frilling-guide, and a winding-thread carrier or guide rotating around the frilling to wind a thread thereon, as described.

5. The combination, substantially ashereinbefore set forth, of a frilling-guide, pressing-rollers which draw the frilling therefrom, a single spiral overlapping the frilling-edge of the guide and crossing the space between said guide and the pressing-rollers, and a winding-thread carrier rotating around the spiral and the line of traverse of the frilling, as described.

6. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore set forth, of a frillinguide, press:

ing-rollers which draw the frilling therefrom,

a double spiral opposite theband-edge of the guide crossing the space between said guide and the pressing-rollers, and a winding-thread carrier rotating around the spiral and the line of traverse of the frilling to wind the thread around them in the space between the guide and rollers, as described.

7. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore set forth, of a frilling-guide, pressin g-rollers which draw the frilling therefrom, rotating spirals on opposite sides of the guide and presser-rolls, a rotating thread-carrier layinga winding thread around the spirals and frilling, a steam-moistening vessel, a dry-, in g-plate, and guides thereover through which the band is drawn after passing between the pressing-rollers.

8. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore set forth, of a frilling-guide, pressin g-rollers which draw the frilling therefrom, rotating spirals on opposite sides of the guide and presser-ro1ls, a rotating thread-carrier laying a winding thread around the spirals and frilling, a steam-moistening vessel, and guides thereover through which the band is drawn after passing between the pressingrollers to moisten the fabric.

9. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore set forth, of pressing-rolls, a double spiral rotating adjacent thereto, a stud sup porting its delivery end, and a winding-thread carrier rotating around the spiral in advance of the rollers to wind the thread thereon, as described.

10. The combination, substantially as hereinbefore'set forth, of a rotating ring or tube, a Winding-thread carrierrevolvin g therewith, a frillingguide extending longitudinally through the tube, pressing-rollers in the plane of the guide in advance of its delivery end, rotating spirals on opposite sides of said guide and of the pressing-rollers, moistening and drying devices on the delivery side of the rolls, a guide overlying them, and means for actuating the moving parts, all co-operating 

